When my editor asked me to check out castles in Belgium, I conjured images of opulent palaces and imposing châteaux. Instead I found something better. In Belgium—as in much of northern Europe—”castles” are often large but homey buildings with tidy square towers, plump furnishings, and folksy nobility who welcome guests with cheery warmth. Hard white stone in Belgium’s French-speaking region, the Ardennes, gave rise to hundreds of these cozy castles. Some villages boast several, built in the 11th and...




